Notes

• [1]
  This article is based on a presentation given at the 2018 Yale Urban Ethnography Conference, “Observing and Representing Everyday Life,” which took place on November 1^st-3^rd, 2018 at Yale University. I am grateful to Elijah Anderson, Celia Bense, Zsuzsa Berend, Henri Peretz and to all the participants at this conference for their constructive criticism.
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  Beth A. Latshaw, “Food for Thought: Race, Region, Identity, and Foodways in the American South,” Southern Cultures, vol. 15, n° 4, 2009, p. 106-128.
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  Shaun Chavis, “Is there a Difference Between Southern and Soul?,” in D. Volberg Reed, J. Shelton Reed and J. T. Edge, eds., Cornbread Nation 4: The Best of Southern Food Writing, Athens: University of Georgia Press, 2008, p. 237-244; Gretchen L. Hoffman, “What’s the Difference between Soul Food and Southern Cooking? The Classification of Cookbooks in American Libraries,” in J. Jensen Wallach, ed., Dethroning the Deceitful Pork Chop: Rethinking African American Foodways from Slavery to Obama, Fayetteville: University of Arkansas Press, 2015, p. 61-75.
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  John T. Edge and Tunde Wey, “Who Owns Southern Food?” Oxford American, vol. 93, 2016.
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  bell hooks, “Eating the Other: Desire and Resistance,” in Black Looks: Race and Representation, Boston: South End Press, 1992, p. 21-39.
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  Margaret Walker, Jubilee, Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1966.
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  Kathryn Stockett, The Help, New York: Penguin Books, 2009.
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  According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, 25.3 % of black women were employed in service occupations in 2020, compared to 17.6 % of white women. Source: https://www.bls.gov/cps/cpsaat10.htm.
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  “He [my father] was a real Georgia Negro, and he believed in eating plenty of what we in Harlem today call ’soul food’” Malcolm X with Alex Haley, The Autobiography of Malcolm X, New York: Grove Press, 1965, p. 8.
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  Frederick Douglass Opie, Hog and Hominy: Soul Food from Africa to America, New York: Columbia University Press, 2008; Jessica B. Harris, High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America, New York: Bloomsbury, 2011.
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  The name has been changed.
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  Frederik Barth, “Introduction,” in F. Barth, ed., Ethnic Groups and Boundaries: The Social Organization of Culture Difference, Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1969, p. 9-38, p. 15.
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  Jarvis DeBerry, “Can Poor People Have Nice Things? Or Must They Be Displaced? Talk Gentrification with Jarvis DeBerry Noon Tuesday,” Times-Picayune, February 10^th, 2014.
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  The name has been changed.
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  Loïc J. D. Wacquant, Body, and Soul: Notebooks of an Apprentice Boxer, New York: Oxford University Press, 2004.
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  Author’s field notes (translated from French), December 22^nd, 2008.
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  F. Barth, “Introduction,” art. cit., p. 15.
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  Anthony J. Stanonis, “Feast of the Mau Mau: Christianity, Conjure, and the Origins of Soul Food,” in J. Jensen Wallach, ed., Dethroning the Deceitful Pork Chop, op. cit., p. 93-106.
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  NewOrleans.com website: https://www.neworleans.com/listing/cochon-restaurant/23879/.
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  Lynnell L. Thomas, Desire, and Disaster in New Orleans: Tourism, Race, and Historical Memory, Durham: Duke University Press, 2014.
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  John Arena, Driven from New Orleans: How Nonprofits betray Public Housing and Promote Privatization, Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2012.
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  P. Bourdieu, Distinction, op. cit., p. 185.
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  Mark S. Warner, Eating in the Side Room: Food, Archaeology, and African American Identity, Gainesville: University Press of Florida, 2016.
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  A. J. Stanonis, “Feast of the Mau Mau,” art. cit.
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  Bethany Bryson, “’Anything but Heavy Metal:’ Symbolic Exclusion and Musical Dislikes,” American Sociological Review, vol. 61, n° 5, 1996, p. 884-899; Sylvie Tissot, “’Anything but soul food’. Goûts et dégoûts alimentaires chez les habitants d’un quartier gentrifié,” in P. Coulangeon and J. Duval, eds, Trente ans après La Distinction de Pierre Bourdieu, Paris: La Découverte, 2013, p. 141-152.
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  R.A. Peterson and R.M. Kern, “Changing Highbrow Taste,” art. cit.
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  S. Chavis, “Is There a Difference Between Southern and Soul?,” art. cit., p. 242.
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  P. Bourdieu, Distinction, op. cit., p. 194.
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  Ibid., p. xii.
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  Paul DiMaggio, “Classification in Art,” American Sociological Review, vol. 52, n° 4, 1987, p. 440-455; Michèle Lamont, Money, Morals and Manners: The Culture of the French and the American Upper-Middle Class, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992; Richard A. Peterson, “Understanding Audience Segmentation: From Elite and Mass to Omnivore and Univore,” Poetics, vol. 21, n° 4, 1992, p. 243-258.
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  P. Bourdieu, Distinction, op. cit., p. 185.
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  Idem.
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  Ibid., p. 209.
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  Pierre Bourdieu, Esquisse pour une auto-analyse, Paris: Raisons d’Agir, 2004.
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  Jennifer Jensen Wallach, “Dethroning the Deceitful Pork Chop: Food Reform at the Tuskegee Institute,” in J. Jensen Wallach, ed., Dethroning the Deceitful Pork Chop, op. cit., p. 165-179.
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  F. D. Opie, Hog and Hominy, op. cit.
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  Jane Black, “In New Orleans, an Actor Turns Grocer,” The New York Times, March 6^th, 2012.
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  Léo Bourdin, “La soul food, l’héritage culinaire des Afro-Américains, irrigue Paris,” Le Monde, May 26^th, 2021.